Ah! Engine mounts. This fixes vibration, rocking engine, and lost power from the engine torquing around in the engine bay. Really broken mounts can even cause axle failure!
Category Archives: Engine Mechanical
Includes mechanical things about the engine, such as Cams, timing belt, pistons, oil pan, Exhaust Systems, Manifolds, brackets and engine mounts.
Exhaust Studs
This is just a quick tip on Exhaust Studs for the head. These are better than the stock ones, they are made of better metal, and they have a torx heat to make removal much easier. These are much less likely to break than the stock ones.
2091cc 8V Frankenstein Stroker Motor
Special thanks to Marc (Mtl-Marc on VWVortex) for this crazy awesome technote!
What is this is a Frankenstein Stroker Motor? 1991 16V Passat 9A block. TDI 95.5mm Stroke Crankshaft. 83.5mm 8V JE Pistons from Autotech. 3A Audi motor head. And what else? Oh yeah, do not forget about the Schrick 272 camchaft. Read on for the build…
Basically the block is almost ready to install back into the car.
Note the knife-edge TDI crankshaft. ARP Main studs. APR Connecting rod bolts.
Antoine is my helper. Although he seems camera shy today, he agrees with the build so far.
New *cough* aluminium oil pan, new water pump, new thermostat housing.
Another Shot of the stroker.
New Pressure Plate, Clutch and Lightened Flywheel.
Note the oil pan bolts. They are OEM VW Phaeton. 😀
I need a 9mm 12 points socket to torque the flywheel bolts, here it is…
Engine will have a 10:1 Compression Ratio. Basic stock CIS with Lambda (oxygen sensor) for now. Stock Bosch spark ignition. Megasquirt is in the near future.They say how fast can you afford to go, right? Bigger and stronger motor will cost you serious coin my friend. I have all the receipts of just about all the money I ever spent on the Scirocco since 1994. Not sure I want to add them up. Here is the crankshaft right after I got it from the machine shop. TDI crankshafts are heavier and stronger than stock 2.0l crankshaft. Could loose some weight. Once machined, it actually weights close to the stock 2.0l crankshaft.
3A intake manifold work: 5th injector has been relocated to the “stock” JH location. Original hole blocked.
Actually, there are no clearences issues with the 3A head. It is the same size head and valves as the JH head except for the injectors which are in the intake manifolds (3A) instead of the head (JH).
The 3A head will let me run a Euro Passat intake manifold. Got one almost new for about 100 bucks from Europe, including the Bosch fuel rail, fuel regulator, TB and a TPS.
The TB measures 8% bigger than the Neuspeed unit. The runners are at the base 2% bigger than a Techtonics ported JH intake manifold. The runners are much nicer, closer to the A2 design.
Think Megasquirt fun here. More Frankenstein parts.
Now another issue for a 2091cc Stroker.
The 4th connecting rod will hit the intermediate shaft.
The intermediate shaft needs some machine work done to it.
Here is a comparison of, top stock 8V JH intermediate shaft, and bottom 9A 16V intermediate shaft.
Here is the good info I did not find elsewhere. The ring gear is now 5.5mm wide, the diameter of the intermediate shaft is now at 27mm between the bearing and the gear.
I used a JH intermediate shaft, and will use a JH spark distributor.
Pics from the motor install…
Head Studs…
Schrick part number ID. How to tell if it is a real Schrick camshaft. Match this number with what is in their catalog. Fake Schrick camshaft, and there are a few on ebay, do not have this number.
One more install pic…
Starting the car:
First attempt ==> CLUNK
That was it, the crank would not budge
Searching, searching, searching… It turned out that the crankshaft water pump/alt pulley bolts were too long, and they just made the motor not to turn. 😀
Attempt number two ==> Monster motor started right up after a small spark distributor adjustment.
First impression, is like wow, lots of torque at low rpm. Fifth gear at 2500 rpm will pull strong if I floor it. I did not get it past 4000 rpm.
It turns out that there is a somewhat major oil leak coming from the block off plate, or the oil filter flange. I lost one pint for a short 15 miles ride. I have to take this apart, and recheck stuff. Timing needs adjustment. Car pings like hell, but gas is like 10 months old in the tank.
Apart from that, this looks like a complete succes.
Thanks to all who offered technical knowledge and cheers for this project!
Once in the car, it took forever to get all the bits and pieces together. Some wiring to do, lots of bolts to replace.
The intake manifold originally had the fifth injector same location as the Fox manifold. I needed a block off plate for that. Timbo showed me a nice OEM one for the Fox, but this was NLA at the dealership, and I had no time for boneyard.
The solution: billet aluminium
Done
One last thing to do was to make sure the old injectors were still ok.
OEM injector test fixture 😀
Don’t we love the Sleeman 😀
And Finally, Mtl-Marc’s Car:
Thanks, Marc!! I’ll update again when Marc installs his Megasquirt, along with the special 3A efi manifold!
Link to original VWVortex Thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3297039
Audi Engine Codes
This is our Audi-specific engine code reference. Use this to keep track of what each kind of engine is, and what you have in your car. This list is far from complete; please help us complete the list! Comment below….
VW Engine Codes
Belts
Belt routing, legnth, part numbers, types and more. Diagrams show the routing.