All posts by Timbo

Megasquirt Settings

I’ve reached the point of a pretty good running car. This configuration is for my car as it is today, December 3rd, 2023. It’s got a 1.8L 8v JH engine, Cabriolet Digifant intake manifold, Corrado G60 injectors, Passat 16v throttle body with TPS, and a knock-sensing ignition system from a 1985 GTI. This is a fuel-only install, and the RPM signal is coming from the knock computer.

MSQ – Tune File:

https://vintagewatercooleds.tech/Link/2023/MegasquirtSettings/2023-12-03_Snapshot_Tune.msq

Dashboards:

https://vintagewatercooleds.tech/Link/2023/MegasquirtSettings/Main%20Dashboard.dash

https://vintagewatercooleds.tech/Link/2023/MegasquirtSettings/Tune%20Analyze%20Live%20Dashboard.dash

Screenshots:

Electrical Terminal Part Numbers

There are two main types of terminals used in early watercooled VWs. The first style is the 1/4″ quick-disconnect terminals – called FASTON. The other type typically goes into multiple contact plastic housings. While it is most commonly know as a fuel injector connector, the correct name is Junior Timer and was made by AMP.

The type of crimp is called an F-crimp. This is sometimes referred to as open barrel and is similar to GM/Delphi Weatherpack/Metripack crimping. This is an open, double barrel crimp. They usually have a section that crimps a wire, and a larger section that makes a mechanical connection with the wire insulation. This crimping method is easily repeatable, reliable and more corrosion resistant than soldered connections.

These part numbers can be found on electronic suppliers such as Mouser or Digi-Key.

Photo of several styles of terminal

Fuel Injector Type Terminals

The 2-pin connectors used everywhere on VWs, Audis and many other brands. These are commonly known as Bosch connectors, AMP connectors, or fuel injector connectors. They are actually called Junior Timer connectors. The company currently making them is TE Connectivity (Formerly known as Tyco Electronics and AMP).

The later series called Junior Power Timer has an extra stainless steel cantilever spring, and an additional locking tab. These are used on Audis, and on later VWs. They are generally compatible with Junior Timer housings.

170209-1

P/N: 170209-1
Name: Junior Timer 2.7mm receptacle
Wire Size: 14-20 AWG
Max power: 24A
Material: Copper contact with tin plating
Max Temperature: 125°C
Locking Lance: Yes, 1 on back

This is the standard receptacle terminal with one locking lance. The width of the terminal fingers is about 2.7mm. This is used in various places:

  • Cold Start Valve
  • Aux Air Valve
  • Idle Boost Valves (2-pin on/off and 3-pin variable on 16Vs and Digifant)
  • Warm-up Regulator
  • Frequency Valve on CIS-Lambda
  • Differential Pressure Regulator ON CIS-E and CIS-Motronic
  • Fuel Injectors on Digifant
  • Throttle Position sensor on some Digifant and Motronic systems
  • Oxygen Sensor Heater connector on 16V and many later cars
927879-2

P/N: 927879-2
Name: Junior Timer 4.8mm receptacle
Wire Size: 13-17 AWG
Max power: 40A
Material: Copper contact with tin plating
Max Temperature: 125°C
Locking Lance: Yes, 1 on back

This is a wider contact, only used in a few places:

  • Transfer Pump connector inside the fuel tank on 2-pump cars such as 1984.5 – 1992 Sciroccos and later Cabriolets
  • Possibly the terminal used in the Mk3 starter solenoid connector

1/4″ Quick-Disconnect Receptacle Terminals

These are known as FASTON receptacle terminals. They are described as .250, 6.3x18mm, or just 1/4″ quick disconnects. Sometimes incorrectly described as spade terminals. The measurement is based on the width of the tab. They have a locking lance on the back for locking into terminal housings. They are very common in many cars, and other applications. Just a few examples of where they are used:

  • Ground connections at fuse panel (with no housing)
  • Many single connectors on the back of the fuse panel
  • Throttle wide-open switch on CIS cars
  • Oil Pressure sensors
  • Oil and coolant temperature senders
  • Radiator fan switch connector
  • Various in-harness connectors
626094-2

P/N: 626094-2
Name: FASTON 250
Wire Size: 17-20 AWG
Max power: 28A
Material: Brass, tin plating
Locking Lance: Yes

42238-2

P/N: 42238-2
Name: FASTON 250
Wire Size: 14-18 AWG
Max power: 28A
Material: Brass, tin plating
Locking Lance: Yes

170054-1

P/N: 170054-1
Name: FASTON 250
Wire Size: 16-20 AWG
Max power: 28A
Material: Brass, unplated
Locking Lance: Yes

1/4″ Connector Housings

These are the clear plastic housings that are normally over these connectors. This is a clear/natural plastic, and matches the original types typically in 70s and 80s VWs. The locking lance on the FASTON terminals will lock into this.

8-735075-0 Low profile clear plastic housing for 1/4″ connectors with locking tab

P/N: 8-735075-0
Name: Low profile, single contact, FASTON 250 housing
Color: Natural

5-154509-4

P/N: 5-154509-4
Name: Single contact, FASTON 250 housing
Color: Black
The black variation of the plastic housing. This is used specifically on the throttle body open-throttle switch connectors on some cars.

Headlight Connectors

The H4/9003 bulb and the sealed beams use a larger size .312 or 8mm/7.92mm connector. The American size of 5/16″ (0.3125″) The flag terminal style is seen often here in aftermarket connectors for a low profile.

180422-2

P/N: 180422-2
Name: 312 Series FASTON 90 degree flag terminal
Wire Size: 10-18 AWG
Max Power: 28A
Material: Brass with tin plating
Locking Lance: Yes

180913

P/N: 180913
Name: H4/Sealed Beam Connector 3-Pin Housing (Flag Style)
Color: Natural

180913-5

P/N: 180913-5
Name: H4/Sealed Beam Connector 3-Pin Housing (Flag Style)
Color: Black

Bolt Measurements

Most of this is applicable to the JH engine (1.8L 8v) but much of it covers more related engines. This is a running list that will be updated often, I’m measuring things as I go.

Water Pump

Pump to block – QTY-2 M8x1.25x30mm, QTY-2 M8x1.25x50mm. all are 13mm hex-head drive.

Water pump housing – QTY-8 M6x1.0x18mm flanged. 10mm hex-head drive.

Pulley bolts – Non-A/C M8x1.25x14mm socket head (Allen) 6mm drive.

Freeze Plugs – 36.5mm diameter. Zerostart 3100034 block heater.

8v Intake Manifold

QTY-3 M8x1.25x50mm, QTY-3 M8x1.25x80mm, socket head (Allen) 6mm drive

Cold Start Valve – M6x1.0 (unknown length, but likely around 15-20mm)

Vacuum lines are 4mm, 3/16 used in the US is a close equivalent.

Valve Cover

For use with ABA rubber valve cover gasket – M6x1.0x32mm, 10mm of thread on each end. No shoulder in the middle.

Transmission

Speedometer cable – M7x1.25x13mm 11mm hex-head drive (This size is very unusual and almost non-existent)

Bumper

US bumpers have M12x1.5x22mm with 19mm hex-head drive.

Euro bumpers have M12x1.75 pitch

Brakes

Bleeder valve M7x1.0x32mm, Speed Bleeder (built-in check valve) is Dorman P/N 12708

Rotor screws are M6x1.0x14mm with a flat head – FH (countersunk), various lengths are available. Drive is P3 Phillips. Do not use a standard P2 Philips on these – the head will strip. Similar screws are also used on Honda/Acura, but they use a JIS spec drive. Use anti-seize when installing, especially on the bottom of the head. Late model VW/Audis use a similar part, 16mm long, with a Torx T30 drive instead of the Phillips head.

Wheels

Ball Seat (Spherical) R12 , 17mm hex-head drive.
Steel Wheels: M12x1.5x19mm
Aluminum Wheels: M12x1.5x23mm

Aftermarket wheels are typically conical seat. If you are running wheel spacers, you will need to get longer lug bolts to suit the extra thickness.

Fonts

This is the Mk2 type font, used in the 80s on the Quantum, Mk2 Scirocco, the Mk2 Golf, the Cabriolet, and the Mk2 Jetta:

https://vintagewatercooleds.tech/Link/Fonts/MARKTWO.zip

I never finished making the Mk1 type font. Here is everything I have – outlines related to that effort: Mark One FONT.zip

https://vintagewatercooleds.tech/Link/Fonts/Mark%20One%20FONT.zip

More Fonts

Here’s a some good Mk1 fonts:

https://www.dafont.com/wolfsburg.font

https://www.ffonts.net/Wolfsburg-Regular.font

020 Transmission Output Flanges

In mid 84, VW change the 020’s transmission from 90mm output flanges to 100mm output flanges. Mainly writing all of this down with what I found out about my 100mm flanges today. I will expand this as I find more information about the earlier transmissions. There was a weird transition period from 83 to 84 where there were two case styles.

Bolts for axles to flanges: M8x1.25 (48mm long)
Torque Spec: 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.)
Part Number for 6mm Allen head type: 113 501 229 D
Part Numbers for 8mm XZN Triple Square head type: 893 407 237
N91108201
W01331834815
ATM 893407237

Axle Nut Size: M20x1.5 (30mm socket required)
This is a self-locking nut (lock nut), and should be replaced every time.
Torque Spec: 240 Nm (173 ft. lbs.)

Circlip (Lock Ring) for the differential pinion shaft that goes inside the output flange: VW Part Number 113 311 287
Tool for removing: Lisle 44900 Lock Ring Pliers

Kit for output shaft seal, including circlip, cap, and seal: 020 498 085G or 020 301 189H

Output Shaft Seal for 100mm flanges (around the outside of the flange): 50mm x 65.2mm x 10mm (ID x OD x Thickness)
1.969″ x 2.565″ x 0.394″
Part Numbers:
National / Timken 710651
Febi 01519
Kaco 216415
88996656
020301189E
020301189G
020301189H
020301189M
020301189N
020301189R
020301189S
020301189T
020498189E
020498189G
02M409189
02M409189B

Output Seal for 90mm Flanges (Coming Soon)
Older pre-83 cars used a “Fat” seal 36x58x15

Flange Seal – this is a cap that goes inside the flange to cover the pinion shaft with circlip, it separates the viscous CV joint grease from mixing with the gear oil inside the differential: 020 409 289 B

Tool for pushing in axle flange: VW 201
Basically is a M10x1.5 at least 130mm threaded rod with a bent U shape to push down on flange. You will need enough clearance to get the lock ring pliers in.

Broke VW Reference DIY page:
http://www.brokevw.com/020flange.html

Technote Index

ATS – Mk2 Brake Light Mod

This is an original ATS technote from 9-29-2003

I know, you have seen a dozen web sites with this modification on the web for the MK1 and MK2 well perhaps you want to look closer.

I will admit once again I took a readily available idea on the web, but I changed it around. Every single one I have seen so far (and I have counted over 18 sites with this modification listed), and I noticed ONE common factor, everyone is copying, every one else, and put their brake lights together, some how, like an unspoken standard, became apparent to my eyes…

Though the listed modification helped me a great deal in figuring it all out, I could not bring myself to make the same boring change as everyone else. So? what did I do that is so different?

Continue reading ATS – Mk2 Brake Light Mod

Round Lights on a Mk2 Scirocco

Round Headlights on a Scirocco, is like returning what was taken  away with them 4×6 headlights. Annoyed at the cost of euro lights and its wide  distribution, I decided to move back into time and change the missing link on my  Scirocco. to give it back its purebred look that VW took away in 82.

Parts needed for this project:

  • 2 complete PAIRS (4 assemblies) of Scirocco Mk1 headlights frames,

  • 1 complete pair (2 Assemblies) of Mk2headlight (USA OEM),

  • 1 GTI or Mk1 Scirocco Grill (or make your own).

cut each Mk1 headlight assemblies in two parts, keep the low beam (outside beam lowest profile) parts.
Now remember this is a custom install there is no perfect way unless yours a welder :), so you need to make the Mk1 parts (2 per side) so that when you hold the grill up against it, the headlights are spaced properly and centered the VW insignia in the middle of the grill parts. (this is the annoying time wasted moving the left and right side by hand (suggestion hold grill against radiator frame, line up one headlight drilled holes, screw it in, place opposite side in as well the other should fall in place.
Now cut the MK2 brackets has shown.
mount your corner lights back on it and install on the corners of the car 🙂 if you left enough metal on ends it will fit perfectly aligned (maybe a little trimming involved) with your Mk1 brackets, I slid mine underneath and use screws to hold it in place (upper and lower corner screws of the Mk1 corner headlight).
This picture is to save yourself a lot of time if you encounter this situation… it doesn’t fit properly, don’t hack at it, grab the other corner light, your tying to use the wrong corner in.
the grill has 2 holes (a top and below) in between headlight, use a long screw with a sleeve to prevent screw to pull it in too far. and 4 in the split part of it (only the top ones touch metal.)
there your done, select you headlight as you wish, and go drive your car around.. and don’t forget to post on VWVortex your job, so the rest of the folks can gawk at it.