Got your OXS light on? It’s just a mileage counter, it has nothing to do with the sensor. Need to know how to reset it? It’s easy!
Ok, first thing’s first. The OXS light comes on every 30k miles like clockwork, because there’s literally a gearbox that makes it go off that often. It has nothing to do with the sensor whatsoever. It’s a good idea to replace the sensor that often, but that’s up to you.
So. Light’s on?
Go under the hood. Near the driver’s side strut tower – know the coolant tank? Lift it up.
It’s the box. You can see the speedometer cable going through it! Easy, eh? The reset button is on the front, it’s white.
Push that button in with a pencil or whatever you have laying about. Push it in far until you hear a *click* – you have to press it in kinda far.
Time for the Drum brake technote. This is how to replace the linings, drums, bearings, parking brake cables, and even replace a stub axle. This one has an excessive amount of pictures (132, actually!), so read on for the whole thing.
Special thanks to Marc (Mtl-Marc on VWVortex) for this crazy awesome technote!
What is this is a Frankenstein Stroker Motor? 1991 16V Passat 9A block. TDI 95.5mm Stroke Crankshaft. 83.5mm 8V JE Pistons from Autotech. 3A Audi motor head. And what else? Oh yeah, do not forget about the Schrick 272 camchaft. Read on for the build…
Basically the block is almost ready to install back into the car. Note the knife-edge TDI crankshaft. ARP Main studs. APR Connecting rod bolts. Antoine is my helper. Although he seems camera shy today, he agrees with the build so far.
New *cough* aluminium oil pan, new water pump, new thermostat housing.
Another Shot of the stroker.
New Pressure Plate, Clutch and Lightened Flywheel. Note the oil pan bolts. They are OEM VW Phaeton. 😀
I need a 9mm 12 points socket to torque the flywheel bolts, here it is…
Engine will have a 10:1 Compression Ratio. Basic stock CIS with Lambda (oxygen sensor) for now. Stock Bosch spark ignition.Megasquirt is in the near future.They say how fast can you afford to go, right? Bigger and stronger motor will cost you serious coin my friend. I have all the receipts of just about all the money I ever spent on the Scirocco since 1994. Not sure I want to add them up. Here is the crankshaft right after I got it from the machine shop. TDI crankshafts are heavier and stronger than stock 2.0l crankshaft. Could loose some weight. Once machined, it actually weights close to the stock 2.0l crankshaft.
3A intake manifold work: 5th injector has been relocated to the “stock” JH location. Original hole blocked.
Actually, there are no clearences issues with the 3A head. It is the same size head and valves as the JH head except for the injectors which are in the intake manifolds (3A) instead of the head (JH).
The 3A head will let me run a Euro Passat intake manifold. Got one almost new for about 100 bucks from Europe, including the Bosch fuel rail, fuel regulator, TB and a TPS. The TB measures 8% bigger than the Neuspeed unit. The runners are at the base 2% bigger than a Techtonics ported JH intake manifold. The runners are much nicer, closer to the A2 design.
Think Megasquirt fun here. More Frankenstein parts.
Now another issue for a 2091cc Stroker.
The 4th connecting rod will hit the intermediate shaft.
The intermediate shaft needs some machine work done to it.
Here is a comparison of, top stock 8V JH intermediate shaft, and bottom 9A 16V intermediate shaft.
Here is the good info I did not find elsewhere. The ring gear is now 5.5mm wide, the diameter of the intermediate shaft is now at 27mm between the bearing and the gear.
I used a JH intermediate shaft, and will use a JH spark distributor.
Pics from the motor install…
Head Studs…
Schrick part number ID. How to tell if it is a real Schrick camshaft. Match this number with what is in their catalog. Fake Schrick camshaft, and there are a few on ebay, do not have this number.
One more install pic…
Starting the car:
First attempt ==> CLUNK
That was it, the crank would not budge
Searching, searching, searching… It turned out that the crankshaft water pump/alt pulley bolts were too long, and they just made the motor not to turn. 😀
Attempt number two ==> Monster motor started right up after a small spark distributor adjustment.
First impression, is like wow, lots of torque at low rpm. Fifth gear at 2500 rpm will pull strong if I floor it. I did not get it past 4000 rpm.
It turns out that there is a somewhat major oil leak coming from the block off plate, or the oil filter flange. I lost one pint for a short 15 miles ride. I have to take this apart, and recheck stuff. Timing needs adjustment. Car pings like hell, but gas is like 10 months old in the tank.
Apart from that, this looks like a complete succes.
Thanks to all who offered technical knowledge and cheers for this project!
Once in the car, it took forever to get all the bits and pieces together. Some wiring to do, lots of bolts to replace.
The intake manifold originally had the fifth injector same location as the Fox manifold. I needed a block off plate for that. Timbo showed me a nice OEM one for the Fox, but this was NLA at the dealership, and I had no time for boneyard.
The solution: billet aluminium
Done
One last thing to do was to make sure the old injectors were still ok.
OEM injector test fixture 😀
Don’t we love the Sleeman 😀
And Finally, Mtl-Marc’s Car:
Thanks, Marc!! I’ll update again when Marc installs his Megasquirt, along with the special 3A efi manifold!
This technote will be all about the Megasquirt relay board. I have just ordered one, and I will install it after the MD/PA Megasquirt Tech weekend GTG.
This technote specializes in exactly how to configure the megasquirt to read the hall sender in a VW distributor and then fire the coil. This applies to the V3 PCB and Processors Megasquirt I and Megasquirt II.
This quick and easy technote will show you how to wire fog lights into your car. You also have the option of wiring them so that they only come on with the low beams, in case your state inspection requires that.
Just take a look at the diagram – it’s pretty straightforward. Use 14 Gauge Automotive Primary wire. For the power wire, consider 12 gauge.
VW never sent the 16v over to the US with an electronic fuel injection system, so converting it to EFI is just a bit more involved. No Junkyard parts for this!
ATS Technotes + Timbo's Technotes. An archive of tech procedures for fixing early watercooled VWs from 1975-1992 with a focus on the VW Scirocco Mk1 and Mk2.
Time for the Drum brake technote. This is how to replace the linings, drums, bearings, parking brake cables, and even replace a stub axle. This one has an excessive amount of pictures (132, actually!), so read on for the whole thing.
This technote specializes in exactly how to configure the megasquirt to read the hall sender in a VW distributor and then fire the coil. This applies to the V3 PCB and Processors Megasquirt I and Megasquirt II.
